Most paint failures are not paint failures. Peeling, flaking and blistering almost always trace back to what happened before the first coat went on — a surface that was dirty, damp, chalky or unprimed. Understanding preparation is the difference between a finish that lasts a decade and one that fails in two years.
Preparation is most of the job
On a well-run repaint, preparation takes considerably longer than painting. It is also the part customers cannot see once the job is finished, which is exactly why it is the first thing cut on an underpriced quote.
Clean: Wash off dirt, grease, salt and mould. Paint bonds to the surface it touches — if that is grime, it bonds to grime.
Treat mould: Mould must be killed, not painted over. Coating live mould simply hides it while it continues to grow underneath.
Scrape and sand: Remove loose and flaking material back to a sound edge, then feather the edges so repairs do not telegraph through.
Fill and make good: Fill cracks and holes, and address the cause of any movement cracking rather than just the symptom.
Prime: Bare timber, plaster, render and metal each need the correct primer or sealer. Stains and tannin-rich timbers need a blocking primer or they will bleed through.
Interior work
Interior painting is judged on finish quality and on how well the space was protected. Furniture covered, floors masked, edges cut cleanly and fixtures removed rather than painted around.
Sheen level does practical work as well as aesthetic. Flat and matt finishes hide surface imperfections but mark easily; low-sheen and satin are more washable and suit hallways and living areas; semi-gloss and gloss are used for trim, doors and wet areas where moisture resistance and scrubbability matter.
Exterior work
Exterior coatings are a weather system, not decoration. In Australia the enemies are ultraviolet light, driving rain, salt in coastal areas, and large daily temperature swings that make substrates expand and contract.
Weather dictates the schedule. Painting on a damp surface, in high humidity, in direct heat, or late enough in the day that dew forms before the film cures will all compromise adhesion. A contractor who reschedules for weather is protecting your finish.
Timber: Needs the most maintenance. Check sealed end grain, window sills and anywhere water can sit.
Render and masonry: Must be fully cured before coating; alkalinity in new render can attack unsuitable paint films.
Metal: Rust must be removed and the surface treated with an appropriate primer, or corrosion continues under the new coat.
How often should a property be repainted?
There is no single answer, because exposure varies enormously between a sheltered internal wall and a west-facing coastal facade. As a general guide, interiors in low-traffic areas go many years between repaints, high-traffic interiors and wet areas need attention sooner, and exteriors need inspection well before visible failure.
The more useful habit is to inspect rather than count years. Chalking that comes off on your hand, hairline cracking, loss of gloss, colour fade on sun-facing walls and any lifting at edges all indicate the coating is near the end of its service life. Repainting at that point is straightforward; waiting until timber is exposed and weathered adds significant repair cost.
Commercial considerations
On occupied commercial sites the constraint is usually operational rather than technical. Work is staged after hours or in sections, low-odour products are used in occupied areas, and wet edges and drying times are planned around when people need the space back.
Access, traffic management and site induction requirements often influence the programme more than the painting itself, and should be settled before work starts rather than discovered on day one.